Land Rover One Ten County Station Wagon

Viscous fan & radiator replacement

Decided to remove the viscous fan and cowling so that I could fit an electric fan. This involved removing the top radiator hose as well as the turbo pipe so I also took the opportunity to renew the coolant, flush the radiator and heater matrix.

The amount of space taken up by the cowling is amazing. After removal, there is so much room, it is now possible to stand in the engine bay with me feet on the axle. With todays engines crammed into ever decreasing engine bays with their plastic covers, it is a breath of fresh air to be able to reach and remove components without having to strip other parts away.

I have a Mk1 Ford Mondeo fan on order from the popular online Tat Bazaar we all know and love. Cost... £4.99 and add to that an X-Fan temp sender, ON/OFF/ON switch and I will have full control over the cooling. Step by step guide to removing the viscous fan, replacing the intercooler & radiator and installing an electric fan with thermostat.

200 Turbo pipes

200 TDI Front View

200 Radiator Power Steering coolant tank

200 Oil Cooler

Series of internal images

Second row Exmoor Trim High back seats

Left hand section of dashboard showing vents clocks and radio

Gear lever and Hi Lo lever

Front row seats including cubby box

Dash guages and warning lights

A few pictures of 2nd row seat belts

Series of images showing location of reel, and bolts for the 2nd row seat belts.

Second row seatbelts trim and rear housing

Second row seatbelts side bolt

Second row seatbelts rear bolts

CB Radio install

Spent a few evenings installing a CB radio, aerial & cable. Bought the unit as a package deal from Jim at 4x4 CB and was impressed with the friendly service. The aerial mount is a neat fit for Land Rovers and keeps it up out the way at the back. The hardest part of the process was running the cable from the mount, behind the headlining and then down the A pillar and behind the dash to the radio. I went for the large springer and aerial as I wanted extra range and I can't fit in any car parks anyway so the extra height isn't an issue. If it needs to come off, it does unscrew quickly.

The Midland unit is a nice size and has all the functions I require, squelch, mic and rf gain and a scan. The PA function is also nice. Might wire it up to gently inform other drivers of their driving ability when they cut me up again.

At some stage soon I will buy a Mud Stuff console to fit all this in, but until then I will make do with a few wires and switches taped to the dash.

PSM 1 aerial mount

Midland 48 plus Multi

Aerial mount and large black springer

BFG Mud Terrains on Disco Steels

Finally got rid of those awful road tyres and alloy wheels and replaced with BFG Mud Terrains and Disco Steel rims.

The rims were £10 each and the tyres were second hand but still have a lot of tread left. The difference off road is amazing. On road they are slightly noiser but to be honest it is hard to tell the difference over the engine or kids in the back. Highly recommended esp if you drive on wet grass and slippery clay soil a lot.

New BFG Muds

Disco steel rims replaced alloys

At home on the farm

Capel 4x4 Auto Jumble

The annual Capel Auto Jumble was a success again with a large turnout and loads of bits on offer.

There were some amazing cars parked including a beautifully restored Forward Control. It certainly made what is normally an easy task of finding my car in the car park difficult.

Capel 4x4 Auto Jumble Where's my car

Capel 4x4 Auto Jumble Beautiful Forward Control

Capel 4x4 Auto Jumble 02

Capel 4x4 Auto Jumble 01

Snapped a half shaft

Snapped the offside front half shaft. Lost all drive when pulling away and changing up to 2nd. didn't hear any snapping noises and judging by the look of the break, it has been broken for some time.

As I had drive when in difflock and the front prop was spinning away, advice from the LR4x4 forum pointed towards the front half shaft and I removed the front prop by the side of the road so that I could get home. Now in the process of stripping the hub, removing the other side and removing the diff so that I can get the broken bits out of the diff.

More pictures and text to come once I get this thing sorted out. Kinda coverd in grease and oil just now

Wheel removed showing Hub Assembly brake disk and spacer attached

Stub axle ready to be removed

Stub axle has been removed showing the cv joint in the swivel hub

Pulling the CV joint and halfshaft from the axle

Other side complete assembly removed from axle flange

Microcat schematic

Differential out and being cleaned

CV joint and shaft removed

All the bits of the snapped Half Shaft left in the differential

New winch fitted

Took a while to get this bolted on as it didn't fit with the existing steering guard so I had to take that off. Will take an angle grinder to it soon and make them fit.

Wiring is now complete. Used 35mm² welding cable run through 16mm convoluted tubing with bulkhead fittings to protect the wiring. Ran it from the battery box, along the chassis up to the wing behind the nearside headlight. Here it went into a heavy duty cutoff, then to the solenoids and finally on to the winch. A hole for the remote control socket was drilled through the wing above the light panel. Although mine was a four pin, only three were used. One +12v feed and then one to each solenoid.

Wiring view of the solenoid

Wiring second view

Wiring from the side showing main cabling

Winch fitted 02

Winch fitted 01

A Land Rover in it's natural habitat

Many people seem to be under the impression that a 4x4 is to be used to take the children to school and then off to the shops to have coffee with Melissa and Tarquin. Well that is wrong and these people need to be shot. Esp the ones in BMW M5's that seem to think they own the roads.

As most sensible people know, a 4x4 is for going off road and living the life of a working vehicle. Here is ours being used to set up the lcoal clay shoot.

Collecting equipment from the farm to set up the shoot

A Land Rovers natural habitat

Great, tried to grease one of the UJ's and I couldn't get the gun nozzle off. Tried levering it and the nipple snapped off in me hand!

Update: Removed the broken bit using an Easyout. Very easy to do because of all the grease. Part number is: TYL100030. Remember that as well as the 3 points on each propshaft, the Track Rod and drag link ends often have grease nipples.

Universal joint nipple sheared off and stuck in grease gun nozzle

Sand ladders required on last trip out

New light guards added

Airbox looking from right hand side

200Tdi engine

Took her off road today down to the local farm and we got very stuck. The fields are sodden and the clay soil made it very slippery. Typically I left the sand ladders in the garage.

We were just about to go and get the tractor to pull us out when we got free, so drove around for a bit then went shooting. Really must get new tyres as these General Grabbers are useless offroad.

Picked up some grease gun cartridges for doing the UJ's and sliding joints once I have hosed the cow muck off the underside.

Grease gun cartridge

Fun in the mud

I had two clocks in the car, one on the main dash and one in the central dash by the washer switch, so I decided to replace the dash one with an Voltmeter (Part No. PRC 3108).

Feed from the ignition white cable and the other terminal goes to earth. With ignition on it shows the state of the battery and with the engine running (alternator providing power) it shows the charge.

Installation of Voltmeter

Close up of guage

Which other car does this

Hi-Low Selector lever and breather pipe

Gearbox and transfer box

Transmission tunnel cover removed to show gearbox and difflock selector

High-Low and Difflock selector arm

Cubby box removed to show transfer box

Is a very easy job. Just drill out the old ones with a suitable sized bit and then rivet in the new ones. Some of the holes might not match up so you may have to make new ones or extend the existing ones in the seal. I also had to remove some of the seal at the hinge end so the door would close. Once finished you may also find the door is harder to shut because of the seal. Made a big difference to leaks and was an easy job to do.

Right rear quarter

Rear picture

Door Seal rubber 02

Door Seal rubber 01

Modern Styling

Middle seats

Looking into the back

Gear and difflock sticks

Middle row seats

Dog guard

Dashboard

Front view before spots

Added spots and rope

200Tdi

First day 04

First day 03

First day 02

First day 01